Search Results for: storage

DIY Wood Shelf Craft Storage

We needing some shelving in our new craft room. The space we had to work with was 81 inches floor to ceiling and about 15 ft. wide. We wanted something sturdy and easy to throw together. We decided to go with 2×4 shelving. It is relatively cheap, easy to work with, super strong and if you don’t go crazy with the screw fasteners it can be disassembled pretty simply if you need to move it.

The other dimensions we landed on were the depth of the shelves at 14” and the distance between the shelves of 13”. Once we had these picked it was just a matter of drawing up the simple design to maximize the space and minimize the number of cuts. This way I could buy standard 2×4 lengths.

Overall the shelving unit measures 68 inches (H) x 14 inches (W) x 12 ft (L). It has five levels of shelves spaced 13 inches apart and allowing a nice clearance to the ceiling on the top shelf. We were able to get all of the pieces we needed out of (23) 2x4x12’ and (2) 2x4x10’. The unit is held together with 2” and 2.5” # 8 phillips deck screws and wood glue.

Purchase list:

(23) 2x4x12’ 2” #8 phillips deck screw

(2) 2x4x10’ 2.5” #8 phillips deck screws Wood glue

Cut List:

(15) 2x4x 14 inch rungs

(6) 2x4x68’ ladder legs

Tools:

Circular saw or chop saw

Milwaukee cordless Hex impact with phillips bit

Milwaukee Cordless drill for pilot holes

Hammer

Measuring tape

Pencil

Ladder supports

The first thing to do is to build what I call the ladder supports. It’s obvious why I call them this, they look like ladders with the rungs providing the support for the shelf boards. This length of unit needs three of these identical ladder supports. So first using 3 of the 2x4x12’ boards cut (6) 2x4x68” pieces which will be the legs of the ladder and using the (2) 2x4x10’ cut 15 pieces 14” long which will be the rungs of the ladder. After you have all the pieces cut lay out one of the ladders on the floor and mark the legs at the point where you want the rungs to attach. Remember that you will be placing a 2×4 on top of these that will become the actual shelf surface. So adjust the position of the rungs so they are evenly spaced with the top rung allowing the shelf to be flush with the top of the leg and the remaining shelves to be 13 inches below the next shelf as you go down. (see picture). Secure the 14 inch rungs in place between the two legs using the 2.5” deck screws and glue on the joints. Use 4 screws per rung. We drilled pilot holes in the leg to make it easier to hold the rung and get it square on the leg as you screw it in. We used a really awesome Milwaukee power impact driver that made life really easy. It had tons of power and the torque settings were perfect to keep the phillips drill bit in the screw without twisting out, and not countersinking so rapidly that it splits the wood. At the end of this section you will have three identical ladder supports.

Shelf stringer boards

Now take the rest of the 2x4x12’ boards and place them between the ladder supports. Four boards will fit snugly within the 14 inch space in the rung. When you have a ladder section on each end and one centered in the middle at the 6 foot mark. Use the 2 inch deck screws to secure the shelf boards to the rungs. I find it wise to have a helper and to fix one shelf board top front and back and bottom front and back first. This will hold the whole thing together and upright while you set the rest of the shelf boards. Finish setting and screwing in the shelf boards and you are done !!

We also threw together a paint storage unit with our extra 2×4 from this project. It is super simple. Another ladder unit as you can see. We just measured the space and cut our shelves to fit.

Remeber our DIY Custom Built-ins from Bookshelves…

It was hard to leave this awesome set up, but we are finally getting settled into a new studio that we love!

50 Plus Awesome DIY Storage Ideas

by Johnnie Collier

It is time for spring cleaning, and I am here to help you with 50+ awesome DIY storage ideas. You can get organized on a budget with this week’s collection. As always, if we missed your awesome DIY storage tutorial, send us the link or comment after this post. Enjoy!

DIY Mudroom Storage Bench and Coat Rack

by Johnnie Collier

Our laundry room is the high traffic area of the house. We go through it every time we come or go from the house. It had been crying out for a place to hang coats and to drop off “stuff” rather than haul it in and lay it on the kitchen table. One Saturday my husband decided that he was going to throw together some sort of a coat rack / bench that would serve our needs. Once he got me going on the idea it turned into a full blown re-do of the room. I have shown you the Free Laundry Room Printables and DIY Hardware Update, and today I am sharing how to make this fabulous mudroom bench/coat rack. This project was pretty easy once we got started, and cost under $150! We LOVE it. It is super handy, and it prompted us to paint and replace the floor in the room. It is now my favorite room in the house! On to the project.

Shopping List

1. 3/4-inch birch-veneer plywood to build the seat box. Get one 4×8 sheet.

2. exterior-grade beadboard plywood to make the back panel on the wall. One 4×4 sheet will cover the area.

3. 1×16 solid-wood panel to make the seat lid. Get one 6-foot board.

4. 1×12 solid-wood panel to make the fascia board and shelf. Get two 6-foot boards.

5. 2×4 to create a support strip for the hinges that hold the box lid. Get 6 feet.

6. 1×4 to create the applied paneling on the front and sides of the box. Get four 8-foot boards.

7. 1×2 to cap the unfinished top edges of the bench box. Get 10 feet.

8. 3/8×7/8-inch panel molding to add a picture-frame detail to the paneling on the box and to trim above and below the beadboard panel. Get five 8-foot lengths.

9. ½x1-inch parting bead to finish the edges of the beadboard plywood.

10. 3/4-inch quarter-round molding to trim the beadboard panel and the base of the box. Get 16 feet.11. ½x7/8-inch decorative shoe molding to trim out the shelf, seat lid, and fascia. Get three 8-foot lengths.

12. 9-inch shelf brackets

13. 2-inch L-brackets to secure the box to the floor. Get seven.

14. European cabinet hinges to allow the lid to overlay the box and open smoothly. Choose ones that are labeled “for frameless cabinets.” Get three.

15. Toy-box lid supports to keep the lid from slamming shut. Get two to support the weight of the lid.

16. 1 5/8-inch deck screws

17. 3½-inch deck screws

18. 2½-inch deck screws

19. 2-inch trim-head screws

20. 2d finish nails

21. 3d finish nails

22. carpenter’s glue

23. vinyl adhesive caulk

24. 180-grit sandpaper

25. Shims

THE BENCH

The bench I chose was modeled after a picture I saw of a classic entry hall built-in I saw on the This old house blog. It had everything we wanted; a place to sit, a place to store stuff, a shelf and plenty of coat hook space. All of this combined into a really nicely appointed, decorative piece that looks nice fits the room. We made adjustment to the plans to fit our needs where necessary. The dimensions were altered because our particular space required the bench to fit in a corner. Likewise, I changed a few pieces of the trim work to suit our taste. The shopping list I’m going to provide you will cover the better part of your project for the size bench we used. If you decide you want to expand or alter to fit your room then you might need to modify your purchase list accordingly. Here’s the one I used to start.

Build and trim out the bench seat:

I found the best spot in my laundry room was in one of the corners. So the first thing I did was take up the baseboard around the entire room. Next I just built a simple plywood box that would become the bench. No need to put a bottom in it. The box dimensions for my particular spot turned out to be 451/2 inches wide by 18 1/4 inches deep by 16-3/4 inches tall. Build this box out of ¾ inch “good-one-side” plywood. Try to get the box to sit as level on the floor as possible and fasten through the back into the studs in the wall using 2.5 inch deck screws. Just a couple or three places will be plenty. The Top of the box (which will be the bench seat is going to be made from the same ¾ inch plywood. It will need to overhang the box by about ½ inch on the front and the sides. But it will not go all the way to the back. ( you will see why later) Also, if your situation is like mine, where the bench will butt up against a wall in the corner, the top wont overlap on that side. So the dimension of my Top piece was 46 ½ by 16 inches.

Install the hinge support

Using a miter-saw, cut a 2×4 to fit the inside of the box along the back wall. Cut a 3½-inch-wide strip of plywood to the same length. Screw the pieces together with 15/8-inch deck screws. Position the 2×4 assembly along the back of the box, 3/4 inch above the back edge. Screw it on, through the box and into the studs, using 3½-inch deck screws. This piece will later be hidden by a plywood strip and molding. This is why the top is not as deep as the whole box. This is where the hinges are going to fasten.
Screw L-brackets inside the box and to the floor, three inside the front edge and two on each side, to hold the box in place.

Attach the panel molding to the seat.Next, I trimmed out the front and the one visible side of my box with 1 x 4 boards. This gives the box a dimensional, shadow box appearance. Cut the 1 x 4 so that the long pieces fit inside the two shorter upright pieces. This way you don’t see a cut edge. To create a profile on the inner edge of the 1×4 framing, cut panel molding to fit inside the 1×4 rectangles. Miter the ends of the molding. Nail the molding to the box, tight against the 1x4s, with 2d nails.

Cap and Trim the box

Cut a piece of 1×2 to the width of the box. Glue and nail it to the top edge of the box front with 3d finish nails. Cut two pieces the depth of the box and use them to cap the sides. The side caps should now sit flush with the 2×4 assembly secured to the wall. Trim the base of the box using quarter round molding mitered 45 degrees at the corner joints.

Trim the seat lid

Using a miter saw, cut strips of ½x7/8-inch decorative shoe molding to fit the front and side edges of the lid. Miter the ends at the corners, but leave the back edges square. Attach the molding to the lid edge with wood glue and 2d finish nails.

TOH Tip: To avoid splitting narrow wood stock with finish nails, dull the points of the nails with the strike of a hammer before tapping them in.

Install the Lid

Rip a piece of plywood to 2¼ inches wide and the length of the box This 45/3/4 inches in my case. Nail it down at the back edge of the seat box to cap the 2×4 assembly. This is labeled as the “Hinge support” on the above photo. Attach the lid to the 2×4 assembly using three European cabinet hinges, installed according to the “full overlay” instructions. This type of hinge allows the lid to open completely over the 2×4 assembly but conceal that same assembly when it’s closed. The lid should overhang the box by 1 inch on the sides and front. This sounds more complicated than it is…Since your top has been cut short of the box dimension by this amount, you will have this 2/1/4 inch strip across the back that does not open with the lid. (see pic). You have to have this to carry the hinges. Setting the hinges requires a little bit of patience. The proper distance will be determined after a couple of openings and closings. There has to be a slight space to allow the lid board to pivot by the stationary hinge mounting board.

Mount the bead-board back panel

I ran the beads on my piece vertically. Since my bench was less than 48 inches I could use just one 4×4 sheet and rip it to the right height. In my case I liked keeping the board 4 feet above top of the lid. So actually you could purchase just one 4×4 sheet already cut. Where the bead-board meets the top of the bench seat I put a 1×4 trim piece to finish out the back. As you will see later, when I finish placing the shelf facia board later, I will put a matching piece at this seam. I think it finishes the back board nicely.

Hide the Bead-board edges

I chose to use a small cove molding to finish out the vertical edges of the bead board. As with all of the trim in this project, take a look at the variety of Trim pieces available and get ones that suit your taste. There are lots and lots of styles available. Some will obviously not work at all and others will be great. There is no hard and fast rule to my knowledge. We often just use what we have left over from other projects.

Finish the Trim

I chose to use lengths of quarter round trim along the bottom edge of the box where it meets the floor. I mitered the corner where it wraps to the side. Take a look at your finished box at this point and decide if there are any gaps or spots that you feel like you want to cover with trim work or if just caulking alone will fill.

Install the Fascia for the shelf

Use a piece of 1×12 shelving board cut to the length of the top of the beadboard panel. This board will be called the fascia board for the shelf and will be where the coat hangers will ultimately goMount it to the wall using 2-inch trim-head screws installed through the studs

Mount the Shelf Brackets

Measure and mark the placement of two shelf brackets on the fascia board.
Using the provided hardware, install the shelf brackets flush with the top edge of the fascia board and on center at your marks.

Secure the Shelf

Cut a piece of stock 1×12 shelving board the width of the bead-board.
Set the shelf on the brackets and tight against the wall. Secure it to the brackets with 2-inch trim-head screws. Cut a 1×4 trim board and attach it to the top of the bead-board to fascia board seam. Attach with 2d nails. Caulk seams.

Paint the Bench

Sand the entire bench with 180-grit sandpaper. Fill all the nail holes and gaps between moldings with caulk. Prime the bench, bead-board panel, shelf, and moldings, then paint them with two coats of semi-gloss latex.

Attach the hardware

Screw coat hooks to the fascia board, spaced evenly between the brackets.

Here you can see the accent wall we painted with stripes. Click the image or text for the FREE Laundry Room Printables!

Repurposed Toy Car Box to Sewing Notions Storage

by Johnnie Collier

Hello! I’m Steph and I blog at The Silly Pearl. I’m mom to 7 year old twin girls and I live in the San Francisco Bay Area.I love to repurpose containers into storage for my craft room. So I’m excited to show you what I made today here on Saved By Love Creations: I took a plastic toy car storage box (don’t worry, it’s not vintage!) and created a storage box for my collection of vintage trims that I’m always collecting from the thrift store. Thanks so much Johnnie for having me on your blog today to share my tutorial!

My girls do have a collection of cars themselves, but most are larger and wouldn’t fit into the compartments of the box. So I thought I could use it for myself in the craft room, to house all the little lengths of rick rack, seam binding, lace, and bias tape currently tangled in a box.

First step is to remove the label on the front and spray paint the entire box, inside and out. Choose a spray paint that bonds to plastic. Use a primer as well. Do several thin coats, allowing time to dry in between. Be sure to follow the drying time recommendations on the spray cans, particularly in between the primer and the color. I chose a turquoise color that I have a lot in my craft room.

Once the paint is dry and you’ve allowed it to cure, you can start applying the scrapbook paper. An 8×12 inch piece of scrapbook paper fit perfectly on the front (I used my Xyron 9-inch Creative Station to apply adhesive to my scrapbook paper). Then I framed the paper with some red rick rack using my Xyron 1.5-inch sticker maker.

Inside the lid, I created a pocket by folding an 8×12 inch piece of paper in half. I applied adhesive to just one of the folded sides and pressed that to the bottom half of the lid so that the other half of the paper unfolds out towards the bottom. Then I applied adhesive to another 8×12 inch piece of paper and pressed it to the inside of the first piece.

Then I applied some double-stick tape to the edges of that unfolded half and pressed down the edges over that 2nd piece of paper. To allow some give for the pocket, I adhered the pocket at a slight angle on both sides.

I grabbed some clothespins and wooden spools and wrapped my trims around them. For narrower trims, I used the wood spools, securing the ends with a little bit of washi tape. For wider trims, or for trims where I had a longer length, I used clothespins. Just make sure the clothespins and wood spools you use aren’t too wide or tall for the compartments. I was able to stack two of these one-inch spools into one compartment.

On the outside, I used a piece of cardboard that one of my trims came in, and with some letter stamps and more trims (of course), I created a label and adhered it to the front. All done!

Inside, I stored some vintage trims that are still in their packaging. Plus, I added some trim along the edges of the pocket papers.

Before and After!

Hope you’ll come on by my blog for more craft tutorials and check out my craft room ideas as well. Also, find me on Facebook, Pinterest, Twitter, and Instagram. Thank you again Johnnie for having me here on your blog today! –Steph @ The Silly Pearl

DIY Reclaimed Wood Craft Paint Storage Shelves

by Johnnie Collier

Paint storage is an issue in my new craft space. Bookshelves are not a great solution since they are so deep and tall. I like to be able to see my paints for inspiration, and to get to the colors I need easily. I decided to make my own shelves that are shallow and closely spaced so that I could fit as many as possible in the allotted area. This was a quick and easy project, made with reclaimed wood I had on hand, so I spent zero dollars.

SUPPLIES:

Reclaimed wood cut to length and width you want your shelves

Shims cut from 2x wood, the same length as the shelves (mine are 24 inches), 1/4 inch thick

2 1/2 inch Kreg Screws Kreg Jig

Ryobi Air Nailer

Wood Glue

Leveler

Stud Finder

Pencil

Tape Measurer

Straight Edge

TUTORIAL:

Cut shelves to 24 inches. I used tongue and groove boards that I had on hand and ripped to 3.5 inches to fit my 3.25 inch paint jars. I cut the groove edge off when I ripped them, so that the tongue edge would create a lip for the wood shims to sit on as the front of the shelf in a later step.

Find studs and mark shelf boards in 2 spots where you will create pocket holes with Kreg Jig. Create pocket holes like I showed you here: How to use a Kreg Jig. I decided to stagger my shelves, so I created pocket holes four inches from each end on half of my shelves and on the other half, 1 inch from one end and 7 inches from the other end.

Use tape measurer and straight edge to draw lines on the wall where your shelves will go. I spaced my shelves 5.75 inches apart. Use 2.5 inch Kreg Screws to attache shelves into studs on your marked lines. After placing the first screw, use leveler to level shelf, then place second screw in the other stud.

Add wood glue to the tongue lip and place wood shim, creating front of shelf. Nail shim into place with 1 inch brads in air nailer.

Attach all shelves and place paint!

So easy, and free, this paint storage solution is tops!

What do you think? How do you stay organized in your creative space?

DIY Liquor Bottle to Mercury Glass Bracelet Storage

by Johnnie Collier

Bottle Bracelet Storage

I am always looking for unique and decorative ways to organize my jewelry. Pretty up a long necked bottle to suit your style and display your bracelets for all to see. It doesn’t get much more straightforward than this project!

MATERIALS

-Long Necked Bottle

-Glass Bottle of your choice

–Krylon Looking Glass Spray Paint

–Krylon Spray Adhesive Remover

-Epson Salt

-Kraft paper, plastic or other work surface protector

Bracelets galore

DIRECTIONS

1. Remove any labels from your bottle with adhesive remover. I love Krylon’s Spray Adhesive Remover. Saves loads of time for wine bottle upcyclers like me!

2. Pour Epson salt into bottle so that to about one inch from the bottom. If your bottle is smaller, you can use less. It is not important to be exact here.

3. In a well ventilated area with protected work surface, spray looking glass paint into mouth of bottle. Make sure to follow instructions on label. You want to shake the can vigourously before using. If your bottle mouth is small in diameter like this genie bottle, you will have paint pooling in one spot and running down the neck. That is fine.

4. Shake the bottle like a snow globe, so that the salt grabs the paint and drags it around. This will create the mercury glass look.

Repeat steps 3 and 4 a few more times, allowing each coat to dry for about 5 minutes before applying the next. Stop when are happy with the look.

2. Place your bracelets and admire.

EXTRA TIPS

Decoupage the bottle or paint it with glass paint and stencils for a look other than mercury glass. The customization possibilities are infinite!

Does DIY Jewelry Storage excite you? Visit our 50+ Clever Jewelry Storage DIY Ideas!

Need some bracelets now that you have a stylish, eco friendly bracelet display? We have you covered with 50+ DIY Bracelets to Make:

Stylish Craft Storage with Sauder Bookcases

by Johnnie Collier

[pinit]

Do you love the look of custom built-ins, but not the hefty price tag that comes with them? If you have unlimited funds at your disposal to do with whatever you like, this is not the post for you. This is for those who want the designer look on a tight budget, like us. As you may know from our recent new home tour, we are remodeling and decorating pretty much every room. Today I am sharing a peak into the studio. See how I am using affordable bookshelves from Sauder to help organize the space in style!

The ultimate plan here is to add trim and crown molding to make these bookshelves look like custom built-ins. I ordered four 5 Shelf Bookcases from the Sauder website for under $250. There is a ton of furniture to select from on the site, which is well organized and easy to navigate. The product was on my doorstep in no time!

Assembly was a cinch with easy to follow directions, taking about 30 minutes per bookshelf. If I could change anything, I would add marks where the nails should go in the backing. It was hard to know if I was on the wood or not, but I got better at it as I went along, and was a pro by the fourth bookshelf!

If you are keenly observant you may have noticed that the bottom shelf in the first image I showed you is raised compared to the initially assembled shelves. That is a part of the custom built-in plan. These bookshelves are perfect for such a project, but I needed the bottom shelf to be a few inches higher to be flush with the baseboard we will be adding for the built-in look. I cut a 1×12 to fit and attached it to the assembled piece with pocket holes. You can see the added shelf is perfeclty flush with my baseboard! More on that project to come.

If you aren’t up for tackling the custom built-in project, these bookcases are still a great solution for stylish storage! I love the white, and they are the perfect size for inexpensive storage bins to keep you organized.

Stay tuned for the built-in transformation!

This is a sponsored conversation written by me on behalf of Sauder. The opinions and text are all mine.

How to Make Your Craft Storage Beautiful

by Johnnie Collier

[pinit]

Hello there, SBLC readers! This month I have a fun and really quick project for you. I just finished repainting an old desk that took me nearly a week. While I love how it turned out, I was ready to create something cute that only takes a few minutes.

I found these cardboard tubs at Target in their Dollar Spot. That place is dangerous! I snagged two, resisting the temptation to buy them all. I thought they’d be the perfect size to corral my paintbrushes, pencils and pens that are always everywhere but where I need them to be when I want them.

I had these pretty aqua and turquoise spray paints on hand and gave the tubs a couple of quick coats. The Krylon is Ocean Breeze and the Rust-oleum is Satin Lagoon, if you’re a turquoise-lover like I am.

I picked these houndstooth sticky letters up at TJ Maxx a while back, without any idea what I’d use them for. Perfect for labeling some craft tubs.

To get them to line them up straight, place the bottoms of the letters on one edge of a ruler, or any straight edge.

Gently press the tops of the letters onto the tub, give the ruler a little twist, and the letters will pop right off, staying in perfect alignment.

Only one problem though . . . with the letters too close together, the houndstooth pattern made it hard to read the word. So I just popped them off, lined them up on the ruler again, farther apart this time, and pressed them back down. Much better.

Some other goodies I found in my craft stash were these rolls of washi tape.

Have you used washi tape yet? Oh wow, is it fun! It dresses nearly anything up in a snap!

My first attempt was a little too . . . busy, what with the houndstooth already. But you can play around with the letters and washi tape for quite a while without losing too much adhesive and eventually you’ll find a design that works just for you.

I wound up layering two tapes, first a plain turquoise and then the polka dots on top of that. So there’s color and just a little extra pattern, without making your eyes go too buggy.

Then I loaded them up. The turquoise tub says “Draw” on one side and “Create” on the other and holds my pencils, gel pens, and pigma markers.

The aqua tub says “Paint” and “Inspire” and holds some of my paintbrushes. The brushes I use the most often. Yes, I have quite a collection having painted for nearly 20 years. I actually have more markers too but I don’t use them as often so they’re tucked away on a shelf.

Of course, if Target still has some of these tubs, the markers might just wind up on my worktable with the rest of the group.

Yeah, I have a huge worktable. It’s actually a door, set on top of two bookshelves, so it measures 30″ wide by 80″ long.

And that’s why I need these craft tubs . . . because my worktable never really looks like this pic above.

No, this is more like it, with four or five projects going at once.

So if I’m doing some sketching, I grab my tub of pencils and pens and have everything I need. I usually have two to three paint projects in progress so it’s really helpful to grab all of my brushes at once, wherever I’m working in the studio.

I also love the subliminal reminders. I love to draw and paint and I create to inspire others to do the same.

Of course, if you don’t have little tubs like these, you could decorate a shoebox or any other box with a little spray paint, some stick-on letters and washi tape in a matter of minutes. And choose some words that have a special meaning just for you! It’s a great project when you need to get those creative juices flowing but you don’t have a ton of time.

When you do have a little more time, stop by Just Paint It and say hi. I’m getting ready to do some PIY Spring Flowers. (PIY = Paint It Yourself) You can always find me on Facebook, Google+, Pinterest and Instagram too.

Happy Crafting!

More SBLC Storage ideas:

Wanna see how to store your markers for next to nothing? Click the following image…

How about some free, stylish book storage? Click the image below…

And here is a quick and easy dollar store 3 tiered organizer DIY:

Finally, for some more fun ideas to use those pallets, check out my 50+ pallet project roundup;

I hope you got some good ideas here today. Thanks for reading!

xoxo,

DIY Washi Tape Storage and Vintage Trunk to Craft Organizer

by Johnnie Collier

[pinit][pinit]

This is your first peak into my new studio, unless of course, you follow Saved By Love Creations on Instagram. It is finally coming together in an awesome creative space after a couple of months of building and repurposing. Today I am sharing with you a vintage steamer trunk I scored and converted into storage for my supplies, as well as a scrap wood + curtain rod washi tape organizer I threw together with my Kreg Jig.

The vintage steamer trunk organizer is self explanatory. I just opened it up and stored my stuff in there. It is so cool looking that I didn’t have to do much.

Washi Tape Organizer DIY

My friend gave me these random thingies. He knew I would use them eventually.

I attached scrap wood planks between them using my Kreg Jig, like I showed you in this DIY Pallet Sign Tutorial.

I removed the “legs” and distress painted the piece like I showed you in this DIY Distress Painting With Vasoline Tutorial.

Next I attached curtain rods to the front that I got for $2 each at Wal Mart, screwed wire onto the back and hung on a hook to the wall.

Pretty simple project, and I cost next to nothing.

While we are on the topic, you may want to check out last year’s budget friendly craft storage ideas we brought you:

Wanna see how I made that handy dandy hanging marker storage up there on the left? Click the following image…

How about some free, stylish book storage? Click the image below…

And here is a quick and easy dollar store 3 tiered organizer DIY:

Build Your Own Bathroom Storage

by Johnnie Collier

If you have seen any of my wood working posts, you probably know that I love the Shanty 2 Chic girls. They know their way around some power tools, and they come up with great, stylish, functional and DO-able projects to share with us. In my new home, I am in desperate need of some bathroom storage, and their DIY bathroom shelf is calling my name. I love how easy it is, and that it makes use of vertical space.